Bugaboos Essentials

-As much as I dislike packing for guiding trips, once the season is underway it becomes easier and easier. There are many essential items that I carry all the time, regardless of the destination. Other things get tweaked depending on whether I’m going alpine rock climbing, mountaineering or alpine climbing. I must say, I’m quite lucky to have access to all the latest technology to choose from, so no matter what I’m doing, I’ve got the lightest, most functional and durable equipment. I’m heading into the Bugaboos on Saturday for a guiding trip and thought I would share some of the things that I can’t seem to do without this summer.



In this photo:

Ange Finesse Quickdraws – At 63grams each these quick draws are super light and easy to use. After using them for a winter and summer…..I love them! I brought 5 draws and 3 extendable runners.

-Micro Traxion + Tibloc – This is now standard on my harness when travelling on a glacier. With a Micro Traxion, a Tibloc and a 120cm sling I can quickly and efficiently ascend the rope, and perform crevasse rescue. The Micro Traxion is now only 85grams and 91% efficient!

-Adventure Medical Kits 0.7 + SOL Emergency Bivy – The .7 size has pretty much everything you need for a few people for a few days. I through in some Advil and a splint as well. I’ve started carrying the Emergency Bivy as well. It is windproof, waterproof and reflects 90% of body heat. At 3.8oz it is cheap insurance if someone is injured!

-Petzl Sum’Tec 59cm Ice Axe – After a summer of use I’ve decided there is no better technical mountain axe out there.

-Petzl Irvis Leverlock Crampon – This 10 point crampon is lightweight at 876grams for the pair, but still beefy enough to climb ice with and take some abuse. I’ve been using them for everything from general mountaineering to steep alpine ice climbing and they work great and fit well on a variety of boots.

-Petzl Hirundos Harness– My go-to harness for guiding year around!

-Oboz Lightning Trail Shoes – I’m not getting any younger, so I figured I would hike to the hut in my trail running shoes to save my feet! Super comfy and supportive.

-Petzl Cordex Gloves– These leather ‘belay’ gloves are the business for short roping, rappelling and anytime you need durability and traction!

There are many other things of course, like sunscreen, map, Siltarp, and climbing shoes etc. But there also there is the ‘Uniform’. These Patagonia pieces just keep going in and out of my bag all summer long, and this trip is no exception!

-Nano Puff Pullover – One of my summer favourites! Cold mornings, chilly summits, break time on the glacier…..no problem!

-Torrentshell Pullover– When the Patagonia folks asked Tommy Caldwell which waterproof breathable shell he would climb he chose this one. Why? Super simple pullover, helmet compatible hood, one internal pocket that the jacket stuffs into, and bombproof waterproof and breathable protection. I’m loving this jacket.

-R1 Pullover – Breatheable, warm, light, compressible…..I wear this almost every day when I climb unless it is hot out!

-Houdini– For the past 4 years this jacket has been my choice for ultralight, windproof and water resistant protection. You may look at the tissue paper thinness and wonder how durable it is, but I had my last one for 4 years and wore it on everything from hard rock climbs to alpine objectives and only just replaced it this spring. Do not worry, this thing can take abuse!

-Piton Vest – New for this fall, I just got this piece and am super impressed. It feature Polartec Wind Sheild fabric in the torso front and blocks the wind very well, while still staying breathable. I wore it climbing Mt.Athabasca this past weekend and did not have to put a shell on the whole day!

-Alpine Guide Pants – The only pant for summer mountaineering, alpine rock and ice climbing in the winter. Awesome fit, great weatherproofness and excellent durability.

But probably the most important thing that is not noted here is a guidebook a camera and some internal psych to get out there and enjoy an amazing place in the mountains!



One Response to “Bugaboos Essentials”

  1. Joachim Strobel August 16, 2014 at 9:48 pm #

    Wondering about the map in the picture. Is it the Bugaboos Summit Series 1:25,000? My wife was recently in the Bugs and someone in her group had it (the same one posted in the Kain hut). We’ve been trying to find a way to buy it online/MEC/etc, but no luck. Do you know where we could purchase it?



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