Our OnwardUP Connector Leif, and OU founder Rob Owens, planned to do a link-up of the classic Ghost River ice climbs Hydrophobia and the Sorcerer. As the day progressed they were a little slower, and much, much, wetter than planned…

After sussing out the situation, they pivoted. They decided to climb Hydro (180M WI 5+) and then walk up to the ridge above, for great views of the Devil’s Head and the Rockies front range.

“An otherwise straightforward climb, with little current hazard from snow or ice features, Hydro lived up to its name…. and soaked us on the second pitch.”
Rob stated. Both Rob and Leif were both testing different jackets for Patagonia.
Leif wisely chose the hardshell and Rob wore the summer softshell. Both had the Dual aspect waterproof bib pants, so at least their legs stayed dry…
After both getting soaked they were very close to bailing after two pitches (the climb was 4 total). Leif, soaking wet, even shared at the cave belay;
“I’m 75/25, meaning leaning 75% toward going down…”
He quickly changed his mind, and launched up the dry and brittle steeper left side of the climb out of the way from the main flow of water…
For Rob, it was a good test of the overall apparel system. He climbed the next two pitches wearing all his clothing, not really an ideal situation, but seeing as it was about 0C he felt continuing was a reasonable plan. for Rob to dry his layers, he needed to move heat through them, letting the moisture evaporate without getting wetter from the wet ice above…
They continued upwards.
Rob’s Patagonia layers were as follows:
  • Cap LW t-shirt
  • Cap Thermal Hoody
  • Prototype thin Stretch woven softshell (normally, if dry, that would have been all that was needed)
  • DAS Light Parka
  • Houdini Jkt overtop

Rob often ice climbs in a Houdini that is one size larger than his normal size. He does this so it can be put over layers, and also so the hood fits better over a helmet. The Houdini is not waterproof, but quite resistant, and also very wind resistant! Rob stated;

“The system more or less worked. Within two more pitches of climbing, I went from being pretty much water-logged (see photo) to almost completely dry.”

This trip was a healthy reminder that when things are going well, one can get away with lots of different options for clothing. It’s when things go awry, that you need a system of clothing that is fast drying, breathable, and fits well, especially when layered….AND ideally, bring a light waterproof hardshell for the steep and wet ice pitch or rain event! Rob admits:
“I should almost always bring a hardshell along just in case, but I had momentary lapse in judgment and thought the Houdini would be enough. I am always (re)learning…”
What an adventure! Well, at least we know Kelly Cordes, from the Patagonia Testing Team, will be proud of the testing work they did…